This is the basic's we ask all adopters to read during the adoption process.
We will now send it to them with their weekly write-ups and have a hard copy in their adoption kits too.
This is a great gudie for the foster homes too, when beinging in a new foster dog.
REFURBISHED PETS OF SOUTHERN MICHIGAN DO’S AND DON’TS
Do not overwhelm your new dog. We understand that you are excited about your new family member and will want to show him off, it is best NOT to overwhelm. Your dog will almost certainly act stressed in his new home due to all the unfamiliar sights sounds, and smells. The best thing you can do to help him feel more comfortable is walk him in, show him around and then quietly contain him in his new living quarters. We CAN NOT emphasize this enough. Your new dog will be scared and will need this quiet time to process his new environment. Even though your new dog may have acted comfortable in his foster home with things like the foster family’s children and the foster family’s other pets, your home is different and your dog will need quiet time to adjust. While we try to evaluate our foster dogs as thoroughly as possible, it is always best to err on the side of caution and safety. Most importantly, you should never leave your new canine alone and unattended with a small child. Both children and dogs can be unpredictable and use poor judgment. Only as your dog becomes more comfortable in your home should you begin to introduce increased stimuli such as new places, new friends and new animals. When in doubt, always choose the more conservative approach and go slow.
Make use of your crate. Most of the dogs in our program have been crate trained. Since a dog is a den animal by nature, he typically feels very comfortable and secure in his crate since this is his “special place” in your home. Even if you are uncomfortable with the idea of crating in general, we strongly encourage you to make use of the crate- if only in the beginning- for both the protection of your new dog and the protection of your home. A dog that is not crated has the potential to either ingest something harmful and/or to destroy valuable items in your home. Why set him up to fail? Even if your dog was not crated in his foster home, your home and environment are completely different from his past experience and it will take him time to learn the new routine and rules. When your dog is not within your eyesight, crate him to ensure his safely as well as your own peace of mind.
Do not allow the dog on your bed or couch. We agree that this can be a wonderful way to bond with your dog. Not in the beginning! Sleeping on (human) beds and couches is a “right” and a privilege that your new dog must earn. Your dog is a pack animal by nature and only the “alpha” or top members of the pack are allowed to have the best resting spots. By providing your dog access to your bed or your couch, you are allowing him to believe that he is your equal in the pack order. This is NOT acceptable and may lead to serious behavioral problems in the future. If your dog believes himself to be your equal, he may not hesitate to challenge some of your future decisions, in the form of a growl, a quick nip, or even a more serious bite. Just because your current dog might have those privileges does not mean that your new dog should have them right away too- the new dog gets them only once he has earned them by learning and consistently obeying commands, deferring to the leadership of all humans in the household (including children), and getting along with the other animals. If you would like your dog to sleep with you, place his crate in your bedroom. Only as you come to understand your new dog and all of his personality quirks should you allow him more freedom in your home.
Closely monitor all toys and bones. When you first bring your new dog into your home, please make certain to pick up all toys and bones especially if you have other dogs. There is nothing that will start a dogfight more quickly than the presence of toys and bones on the floor. Additionally, toys and bones are a type of reward for your dog and he should be made to work to earn these rewards (sit, stay, down etc.) in doing so, you are establishing your role as the “alpha” member of the household and earning your dog’s respect in the process right from the very beginning.
Collars and leashes. Please put an identification tag and a microchip tag on the collar. Your dog should wear this collar at all times for identification purposes. If your dog should ever get lost, the microchip tag will help alert a shelter that your dog has been implanted with a microchip.
Training collars. RPSM highly recommends that you purchase a prong collar to use as a training collar. While this type of collar looks slightly scary, it is actually a training tool that a dog can easily understand and is sometimes referred to as power steering. Through the use of a quick pop (versus a pull), the prong collar serves to pinch the skin of your dog much like his mother did when he was a puppy. A choke collar is not recommended since it cuts off the dog’s airway and causes the dog to panic and only pull harder.) Importantly, please make certain that someone who is familiar with the proper use of prong collar both fits the collar to your dog and demonstrates its proper use. Until you know your dog better, please make use of this tool at least in the beginning. Finally, please remember that a training collar is just that…training. Your dog should only wear his training collar when you are working with him or walking. No metal collars should ever be left on dogs that are unattended. Especially dogs that are playing with one another dogs or while crated. The collar can get caught on the other dog or the crate and the crate can cause serious harm--even death!
Obedience training. Since you do not speak dog and since your dog does not speak English, it is very important that you enroll in obedience training to help establish a method of communication that both you and your dog can understand. It is also a wonderful bonding experience (Obedience training is actually a requirement on many of our adoption contracts). We recommend that you call a local training facility and inquire about a discount for a dog adopted from a rescue organization. Many will allow you to enroll at a reduced fee, but you do have to ask. If you cannot find one in your area or if you are looking for suggestions please contact us (RPSM 517-238-9241) we will help.
Feeding and treats. The foster parent of your adopted dog will be able to tell you about what type of food, the amount of food, and frequency of feeding that your dog received in his foster home. Generally, RPSM recommends feeding two times per day-- morning and evening. Most importantly, do not “free” feed your new dog. (Free feeding is when food is left available at all times for the dog thereby allowing the dog to feed “freely” on his own.) Free feeding encourages fighting among multiple dogs, pickiness in choice of food, and excessive weight gain. Finally, treats can serve as a wonderful tool to hold your dog between meals. Many dogs can become nauseated on an empty stomach and treats help alleviate the problem. Be cautious, however, about the amount of treats you give to your dog… many are very high in calories and can quickly add too much weight.
Exercise. All canines benefit from regular exercise. Exercise can help to release excess energy as well as to curb destructive behaviors. We understand, however, that not everybody has the luxury of a large, fenced in yard. Regardless, there are still creative ways to exercise your new dog. Some families use an electronic fence. (Please note that electronic fences do not always work well on higher-drive dogs that could run right through the perimeter. These types of fences also do not prevent other animals from coming into your yard. Never leave your dog unattended.) Obedience training for short, multiple sessions per day is another wonderful way to mentally stimulate your dog . Finally, consider participating in doggie sporting events like agility and fly ball.
Housebreaking. Please expect a few housebreaking accidents in the beginning with your new pet. While he might have been housebroken in his foster home, your dog could have trouble generalizing to your home- he might not know where to locate the door to go out. He might need time to learn your routine, and you might need time to learn to read his signs. To help your dog; do not allow your new friend to have run of the house even while you are home. Quarantine him in a smaller area so that you easily can watch him or even keep him on leash until you know you can trust him. Keep in mind that it is like housebreaking a small puppy, only faster. While he is learning, you should always go to the same door and use the same words. We cannot stress this enough; you should watch for all signs- both overt and subtle. Barking, whining, pacing and ever looking at you could be signs that your dog needs to go outside. In the beginning, let him out often since he will be drinking more water due to his nervousness.